Notice the sound absorbing material inside. I replaced this with a NAPA 732-1186 which is 3 1/8" diameter and 24" long, stretched out. Heat the new vinyl tube letting it cool while stretching it. Much easier to work with when not compressed. You will need to flatten the new tube somewhat with your hands. The wire crosshatch liner holding in the original fiber sound absorber a clever design. When compressed lengthwise it expands in diameter and thus holding the fiber layers compressed againgt the tube inside. If you ever get a chance to salvage one it's fun to play with for the physical principle.

Rubber mounts for the cyclone canister: 2 of the Volkswagen 803 121 275A, abt $19 each! These are probably identical to electric motor mounts, which would be a lot cheaper. Let me know if you find them.

The intake piece is pried out of its rubber holders. This is a clever German design, the air pickup is facing backwards so that airflow is reversed in a small space while driving, causing rain to be trapped by the rear surface and drained out the bottom. This would eliminate most rain from the intake.

The intake tube is no longer available from Volkswagen. I used Rubatex closed cell foam insulation, 1/2 thick. Cut a piece 8 1/2 inches wide by 18 3/4 inches long. You are seeing the coarse side of the sheet.

Roll it up with the smooth side in and shove it inside the spiral tube. You could put the coarse side in, but it may restrict the airflow. Click on the preview for a close-up.

This part might be a bit of a challenge. Get in there with a tool between the seam and pry apart the foam so it is butt to butt and compresses itself. It has a natural rigidity and seems to stay in there real well. Notice the clamp the tube has on both ends. I will comment on this later.

Here is the seam where the Rubatex is butted together. This is slightly smaller than the original, but you can see how it makes a nice smooth surface for the airflow, probably better than the original.

A picture down the opening where the tube goes. It is about 21 1/2 inches you will span so compress the spiral tube to that length. Leave about 2 inches to clamp on the lower end and about 1 inch to clamp on the upper end. When putting it in you may need to reach in the bottom and pull the tube forward to clear the obstruction you see here at the bottom.

I did made a slight mistake here. The latch is facing outside (yellow arrow) but it would have been better on the inside so when clamping onto the cyclone canister it would be easier to reach from the bottom. Click on the preview for a close-up.